Uppuveli Beach and Nilaveli Beach are a short rickshaw ride north from Sri Lanka's beautiful seaside city of Trincomalee. Away from the rawness of Trinco town, there'd be few better beaches in the world to while away watching the surreal blue Indian Ocean.
Uppuveli Beach would be my pick for a beach holiday. It has a handful of restaurants to graze and plenty of places to stay from $10/night beachfront shacks to resort suites in the hundreds. It's the type of place people plan to stay for a couple of days and are still there weeks later; or in the case of our neighbour, the eccentric NY-arts-patron-cum-Trinco-local, Royal Llewelyn Lewis, almost a decade later.
There's plenty to do close by: a spot of swimming, beach volleyball, whale watching, snorkelling and diving, strolls in the moonlight, or just chewing the fat with the locals and other travellers.
The staff working by the beach aren't nearly as friendly as those down the road in Trincomalee, but a few blocks back in the village, the service is great and prices much lower than by the sand - unfortunately you can't see the bay from there.
If you're looking for more of an authentic conflict-zone beach holiday, Nilaveli Beach will be your dream destination, encircled by a good few lengths of barbed wire, military watch towers, restricted-zones and restaurants on rations. But beyond the civil war remnants there's a long tract of beautiful white sand, Pigeon Island in the distance and the tepid Bay of Bengal for a dip.
A happy cow in the sand at Uppuveli Beach
One of the more refined spots on Uppuveli Beach - Chaaya Blu Resort Hotel
Chaaya Blu Resort Hotel, home to a pretty impressive buffet if Sri Lankan curry is wearing a little thin
Taking in the view on Uppuveli Beach
One of the beachside Hindu temples, just over the headland from Uppuveli Beach
Me on the long stretch of beach between Uppuveli and Nilaveli
Some helpful signage adding to the atmosphere at Nilaveli Beach
Enjoying the ambience at Nilaveli Beach
The coastal path between Uppuveli and Nilaveli Beaches
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Click here for the scoop and photos about the beaches at Trincomalee, Sri Lanka
Click for photos of crumbling colonial homes, bars and the beach at Dutch Bay, Trincomalee